Earthbag Stemwall

The earthbag stemwall goes in at the off-grid straw bale cabin site

To be really honest here, foundations are the least exciting part of any natural building project for me.  Most of the fun stuff like timber framing, building with straw bales, applying clay plaster, or building with cob represents the “glory” of the natural building world. Foundations don’t have the same sex appeal, for lack of a better phrase. However, a good foundation is one of the most important parts of a home.

The small off-grid home we’re helping friends build here in the Appalachian foothills is getting a bunch of work done to it recently. The biggest task of the moment is building the earthbag stemwall, which we need to finish before our upcoming Straw Bale Workshop in July. We opted for an earthbag stemwall due to the availability of appropriate materials, the relative ease of construction, and the unique siting of the house. All things considered, I think going the earthbag route has been a good choice. Here are some of our considerations for this particular choice.

Choosing to Build an Earthbag Stemwall

A foundation can take on many different forms. Stone or “urbanite” are good masonry choices, and in really rough terrain or wet climates, building up on piers is a potential option. Concrete represents a kind of “last resort” for me personally, as it comes loaded with high embodied energy and cannot be easily repaired or re-purposed if and when that time ever comes. Honestly, the options for building a home with ground contact is a difficult task to achieve with all natural materials. Earthbags fill an interesting void in the array of choices.

Building with Earthbags

Earthbags get filled with a mix of readily available clay subsoil and gravel

Earthbags are nothing more than woven plastic sacks (or polypropylene, to be more specific) filled with a combination of clay subsoil and aggregate. Recipes for fill can vary according to need. The earthbags themselves are kept dry by being built upon a rubble trench, and extensive drainage work around the home. A large porch overhang protects fully half the home from direct weather as well.

Because the home site is inaccessible by anything other than foot or four wheel drive truck, all the material needs to be reasonably transported in small loads. The actual bags themselves take up barely any volume, of course, and clay subsoil is readily available around the site thanks to all of the grading that happened earlier last year. And we are able to get gravel up by the pickup load without too much trouble.

Some other benefits of choosing earthbags include that they are pretty forgiving, unlike stone, which requires a lot of time and skill to collect and stack. There are other challenges with using stone, too — if they’re dry-stacked, you need some reasonable way to keep drafts and rodents out. If they’re mortared, the stones are far less repairable. Concrete was not an option for this cabin (due to access), even if we wanted to use it. Also important to note is the octagonal shape of this house — earthbags easily accommodate an irregular house plan such as this.

So that’s where earthbags came in. They are low cost, require less time to complete, and frankly they’re easier to work with than other comparable choices. Outside inputs are either low (the amount of total plastic is not significant) or readily available and abundant (gravel for fill from a local quarry, and clay from the site itself.) Note too that we’re building straw bale walls on top of the earthbags (with a toe-up between the two). These two methods are a good match as well.

All things considered, earthbags offer some unique benefits in this particular natural building design and location.

Next time… I’ll describe the actual guts of our stemwall design, and include a cutaway drawing of how we designed the stemwall to accommodate the straw bale walls, and include insulation and protection from UV and moisture damage.

 

 

8 Comments

  • Thank you, Ziggy – this is super helpful as I’m in the planning – close to digging – stages of a straw bale house on a rubble trench/bag foundation. Looking forward to more details.

    Any thoughts on using cinders/scoria as opposed to aggregate? Cinders are cheap & plentiful in my area.

    • ziggy says:

      Are cinders a kind of volcanic rock? I think that would be fine, as long as you mix it up with about 50% clay and just enough water to bond everything when you are tamping the bags to “set up” the material.

      • Ah, interesting – thank you. I’ve been considering gravel bags and this argues in favor of that. I am in NE Arizona, so very dry normally, but we can have intense rains.

        Cinders are a type of volcanic rock – porous and lightweight. If they’re usable they will make material hauling and the foundation building itself less arduous.

        Many thanks.

      • Owen Geiger says:

        Ziggy – the US Dept. of Transportation did accelerated testing on poly sand bags (earthbags). The report is available for sale. They found water has no adverse affect, and the bags can last 500 years or longer if kept out of sunlight. UV damage is by far the greatest risk, not water. Also note, Kelly Hart built his house with bags of volcanic rock (also called scoria or pumice) with excellent thermal results.

  • J Deguire says:

    Hey there,
    I am wondering what size of earthbags you used to make your stem wall. I am planning a rubble trench – earthbag (or hyperadobe) stem wall and straw bale loadbearing walls above. My bales are 18 inches wide but most earthbags i see are 18 in before filling – which bring sthem to about 15 in.
    What size did you use?
    Thanks

    • ziggy says:

      We used 18″ wide bags, and made up for the missing 3″ with our exterior foamboard insulation. We stuck a sheet of polyiso foam against the bags for insulation (and then secured metal lath over the whole thing so that a rock face could be mortared against the foam.) The toe-up is 18″ and spans over the bags and foam for the bales to sit on. Worked fairly well I’d say.

  • J Deguire says:

    Thank you so much!
    Did you go with rigid foam insulation on the earthbags because the stem wall would be above the level of the internal floor (which would have insulation in it (earthen or wood with insulation) or do you need to insulate your stem wall regardless of whether or not it is above the floor level (which would have its own insulation)?

    We are planning a rubble trench and earthbag or hyperadobe stem wall filled with gravel and we’re going to only insulate below the floor (either wool batts if we choose a wood floor or likely pumice or scortia under an earthen floor) because we were going to backfill the stem wall to the level of the strawbales…

    Insights would be helpful!
    Thanks

    • ziggy says:

      Well, we wanted to construct a fully insulated stemwall… The stemwall does indeed rise above the finished earthen floor height. If you have a crawlspace (with raised floor platform), I suppose you don’t need to insulated the stemwall itself.

      By backfill the stemwall to the level of the strawbales, do you mean bury the stemwall on the exterior? I really wouldn’t recommend that. Straw bales need clearance above finished grade level. Much will depend on other aspects of your design, but in general, straw bale walls will fare much much better when they are raised above the finished grade level (say 14-18″).